lakes and islands

Ok, so I know the title does not sound so exciting, but I am just so excited to have found internet again on the island, that I want to take a quick minute to jot down some of my recent experiences before I forget them. On Wednesday, I took a trip out to Laguna de Apoyo and did a day trip at a hostel/hotel there. It turned out to be a most perfect and tranquil day. I met a canadian couple on the bus over who were very nice and ended up spending most of the day with them and another woman from Belgium. The lake was formed in a crater from the volcano and has warm water and beautiful views. Upon arrival, I hopped in a kayak with Linda (canadian) and paddled around the lake for a bit. We had all asked to have the lunch there and it was actually brought down to us while we were sitting on lounge chairs on the edge of the lake. Lunch was a vegetarian pizza and cabbage salad/slaw placed on a small basket and banana leaf. It seemed like true $4 luxury. After that, we swam out to a floating dock and spent the rest of the afternoon between there and the hammocks all chatting away. In the evening I met up with the canadians for dinner and while I was waiting for them had a conversation with a local couple sitting on the bench beside me. I have found Nicaraguans very easy to talk to and this has been wonderful for me in a short time to get to have local perspective and practice my Spanish. On Thursday, I packed up and headed out for a day of travel (not before having one of my favorite fresh fruit smoothies though of course!). I took a shuttle and then a ferry and then 2 buses to get out to a small hotel area on Isla Ometepe. When I use words like hotel, beach, etc.....throw away everything you have ever imagined for these words and remember that I am still in the 2nd poorest country in Central America (only Haiti is poorer) and then you will get a better image of what hotel and luxury means in these standards. This island is an interesting mix of only locals and a handful of backpacking travelers who roam about the island peacefully. When I first arrived yesterday, it seemed a bit desolate and I was torn between staying and soaking up the island tranquility or perhaps just going stir crazy with so much time on my hands. I had a restful evening and woke up this morning with ganas (desire) to explore the island, so I borrowed a bike and headed out for about an hour ride past houses, farms, island coast, and a cool breeze to another hotel/hostal where I could get cheaper food, company, and internet. It has not taken me long to soak up this lifestyle. So, another interesting story of my interactions.While waiting between buses yesterday (again the buses are old school buses that go bopping along rocky dirt roads and picking up and dropping people off whenever someone whistles from the back), I asked the older woman who was sitting there about the bus that was supposed to come. The conversation went something like this (translated to English of course)
Me; Does the bus pass here for Santo domingo beach?
Senora: Yes, it will come past. I am going past there, but farther down to Balgue. Where are you from?
Me: The United States.
Senora: Ah...I see. It is cold here with the wind isn't it?
Me: Yes, a bit chilly.
Senora: I wonder when the bus will pass. I think I will go back in the bush and go the bathroom.
Me: Go ahead, I will yell for you if the bus passes.
Senora: OK
10-15 minutes later
Senora: They are having a velorio (wake) back there. A 95 year old woman died.

Then another woman came over to the bus stop and soon there chat turned to who they were the daughter of, who owned such and such store in town, etc. and before long turned into shared stories of woman's woe which were unfortunately very similar in being married off young and dealing with marital abuse and infidelity. The hopeful story out of it though is that the younger woman has two children who have finished school and are looking for professional careers. Some stories and insights like these are a good reminder for me as an ESL teacher about where some of our students come from and what factors are playing in. When I was talking to one of the tour guides, he talked about his time in Miami and how he quit school to work and was going to get his GED but never did. Of course there are no perfect answers or endings to these stories for people trying to survive in a country where there is little work or economic hope, but I can at least try to be an informed tourist. I knew going in to this trip I wanted a mix of getting to see and know the country on a political/social level, but I also wanted just plain relaxation and I have found that it has been an interesting mix to try to make happen. I do think, however, that tourist dollars can help Nicaragua, but I don't think they have the infrastructure yet to support mainstream tourism like nearby Costa Rica. It will be interesting to see what happens in the next 5-10 years.